Of Food & Wine
The Oxbow Market in Napa, Calfornia
New Market in TownPhotographs and Text by James S. Tennery II
As you drive into downtown Napa you begin to see a town emerging from its cocoon like the proverbial butterfly. The past few years have seen extensive construction throughout the downtown area and we are finally beginning to reap the rewards. One of the most anticipated projects has been the Oxbow Public Market.
Brain Child of Steve Carlin
The Oxbow Public Market is the brain child of Steve Carlin. You may recognize Carlin as the same genius that converted the San Francisco Ferry Building into a world class destination for oenophiles and epicureans alike. His vision is to house a myriad of food purveyors’, artisans, and local farmers in a comfortable open space. He drew his inspiration from the thriving streets and markets of Europe.
Community of Culinary Passionato’s
Walking through the Oxboro Public Market, a giant 40,000 square foot barn of a building, you get a burgeoning sense of this community of people committed to the culinary experience. As I fondled a giant antique meat cleaver and chit chatted with Shirley Cosentino of Heritage Culinary Artifacts; I watched a local chef bounce from the incredible meat case at Five Dot Ranch to the Whole Spice Company and then off to the Fatted Calf. As he stood at the meat counter, he waxed poetically with the butcher on how a holistic, environmentally sustainable approach to grazing on open ranges and pastures, combined with low stress handling, creates the perfect steak. An elderly gentleman in the group smelled his steak like a big red wine and exclaimed “that’s what meat used to smell like.” The young chef then discussed his spice dilemma with Shuli Madmone at the Whole Spice Company, who carefully measure out the perfect blend of spices after he described the flavors of the sausage he was going to pick up from the Fatted Calf. It was like watching food lectures on the food network.
You don’t have to be a master chef to enjoy the market. There are plenty of skilled artisans standing by to share with you their culinary delights. I have been to the market several times and with each visit I have discovered something spectacular and innovative.
Chachapas
More Discoveries to Come
Chachapas
During my first visit I enjoyed a Chachapas. Chachapas is a 100% sweet corn pancake filled with steak, black beans, and fried plantains. I had no idea what is was, at first. However, the very helpful staff at Pica Pica Maize Kitchen walked me through the somewhat intimidating menu of Venezuelan delights. I was more than pleasantly surprised. While the portions look small they are dense, yet balanced in flavor. I cannot wait to try more of their menu.
Folio Enoteca & Winery
On my second visit, I sat down at Folio Enoteca & Winery. While I had enjoyed Folio Wine Makers wines, I was not sure what to expect. As soon as I sat down, a lovely young lady presented me a generous complimentary sample of the Hang Time Arroyo Seco Pinot Noir. The menu is a bit short, but the grilled pork sandwich called to me. As I waited for my order, I was offered a sample of the duck breast sandwich. It came out like the pressed sandwiches I remember eating in Trieste, Italy. It melted in my mouth and was pared perfectly with the Pinot Noir. My pork sandwich was equally as pleasing, with a light barbecue flavor that again perfectly accentuated the wine. I walked away with a full stomach and a couple bottles of the Hang Time Arroyo Seco Pinot Noir.
Taylor’s Automatic Refresher
Most recently, I braved the lines for a burger from Taylor’s Automatic Refresher. Taylors in St. Helena has been a local favorite of Napa Valley locals for years. In recent years Taylor’s Automatic Refresher has been celebrated on multiple food shows as having one of America’s best burgers. The sweet potato fries were a good enough excuse to drive in from just about anywhere in the Bay Area. Some of the ambiance of the original Taylor’s is missing. Electric buzzing pagers have replaced the squawk of your name over the loudspeaker when your order is up, and a giant neon “EAT” hovers above the kitchen staff; however, they still serve the perfect burger. And let us not forget the onion rings and a vanilla coke.
More Discoveries to Come
Anxiously, I await my next visit to the market as each time I return I find a new treasured discovery. So far, I have uncovered a new favorite green tea from Tillerman Teas, the “Chocolate Project” ice cream from Three Twins Ice Cream and the afore mentioned perfect steak from Five Dot Ranch. February 23rd was the official grand opening of Oxbow Market Place.
I am looking forward to all of the amazing purveyors to come, including the seasonal local farmers who will be selling their fresh produce from the “Oxbow Farm Stands.” I am certain given the quality of the current establishments pursuing perfection within the Oxbow Market Place, the future is bright for this new addition to Napa Valley.